Selfie with sherpas behind her and clouds covering the valley in background.
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‘I’ll Climb Kangchenjunga Once more’ » Explorersweb

Latest investigations forged doubts on Grace Tseng’s ascent of Kangchenjunga within the fall of 2021. She now admits that she fell quick and can climb the mountain once more.

 Controversy has dogged the Taiwanese lady’s Himalayan climbs nearly for the reason that starting: from her stunning try on Winter K2 in 2021-22, regardless of little expertise, to her rush to summit all of the 8,000’ers. However most of all, her declare to have summited a abandoned Manaslu in simply 13 hours with out supplementary O2, with solely her Sherpa guides as witnesses, has met intense skepticism.

 The astonishing velocity made headlines particularly in Taiwan, drawing each loyal followers and fierce critics — a number of the nation’s best-known climbers among the many latter. But it was her earlier ascent of Kangchenjunga that ultimately, was simpler to disprove. Each specialised media and the staff confirmed that, wittingly or unwittingly, she fell quick.

Grace Tseng on Manaslu. Picture: Grace Tseng


Tseng advised ExplorersWeb that she trusted her Sherpa staff to have led her to the summit. Ultimately, although, the photographic proof was too clear, and Tseng is able to admit it. “Sure, I hope to return to [Kangchenjunga] and climb it,” she advised us.

So what occurred on Kangchenjunga?

“I believed that I had climbed to the best level, and I additionally listened to the Sherpas’ recommendation on the time,” Tseng mentioned. “Though [we stopped] slightly quick, I nonetheless thank everybody on the staff,” she added.

Grace Tseng on a flat snowy terrain, blue sky around.

Tseng’s ‘summit’ image on Kangchenjunga, with no geographical references. Picture: Grace Tseng

She may also use the identical clothes shop — Dolma Outside and Nima Gyalzen Sherpa — on Kangchenjunga subsequent time. “This time, I’ll strive with out supplementary oxygen,” she mentioned.

On this picture, a member of Grace Tseng’s Kangchenjunga staff approaches the Pinnacles. Rodolphe Popier of has added geographical references (with numbers) for every characteristic.


Climbers on Kangchenguna’s higher slopes. The Pinnacles and bodily options are marked, in addition to the west facet of the principle summit. (W). Picture: Samuli Mansikka

Earlier than returning to Kangchenjunga although, Tseng has to get better from current knee surgical procedure. Then she’ll have to seek out sponsorship. When controversy arose over her Manaslu declare, Tseng’s GoFundMe account was blocked. Nonetheless, her expeditions, she famous, have relied extra on enterprise sponsorship than on crowdfunding.

Climbing on maintain

“A very powerful factor now could be my bodily restoration,” Tseng mentioned. “It’s been fallacious for a while, for this reason I used to be at all times slower on descents.”

Tseng in a dark forested area

Grace Tseng approaches a crag close to residence whereas recovering from knee surgical procedure. photograph: Grace Tseng/Instagram

Tseng is now again to jogging and energy coaching, however her ongoing restoration is probably not quick sufficient to let her climb Everest in Could as she had hoped.

Manaslu nonetheless unclear

Whereas Tseng’s Kangchenjunga climb now appears resolved, her ascent of Manaslu in October 2022 stays unclear. Doubts arose instantly after her shock summit announcement on Oct. 4. This occurred simply in the future in any case the opposite groups descended due to harmful avalanche situations.

Tseng claimed that she used no O2 and wanted solely 13 hours from Base Camp to summit. This equaled the earlier document set by elite athlete Francois Cazzanelli. Tseng offered a summit video and shortly after, some images, however no GPS tracks.

The talk has continued since then, and a number of other sources have investigated her claims. To every objection, Tseng countered with an evidence. Finally, she offered GPS tracks, together with additional information that we requested. The observe confirmed an unusually common and quick tempo, significantly on the higher sections. Nevertheless it did element her progress up the mountain.

She additionally shared that report in an extended publish on Fb on Nov. 19, 2022. We’ve got spoken to a lot of these concerned, together with Grace Tseng herself. Garmin issued an official assertion saying that the corporate didn’t in any method edit the tracks logged by Tseng’s InReach gadget. Engineer Cedric Shih shared a report supporting the validity of the climber’s PDS log. Whether or not it was edited by some means by another person, we merely can’t inform.

Some gadgets featured on two photos of climbers who summited Manaslu on Oct. 1. Supply: Analytical Report of Grace Tseng’s Manaslu FKT Declare by Chang Yuan-Chih

This stuff additionally seem in the identical location in Tseng’s Oct. 4 images, though a heavy snowstorm reportedly hit the mountain on Oct. 2-3. Supply: Analytical Report of Grace Tseng’s Manaslu FKT Declare by Chang Yuan-Chih


Equally, we lack the technological assets to state confidently whether or not Tseng’s summit images might need been edited or mixed with earlier pictures from different climbers, as some critics have instructed. Test the full report by climber and blogger Chang Yuan-Chih. He makes the case that a number of gadgets pop up the snow in precisely the identical place that they did in images taken by climbers who summited Manaslu days earlier.

Not like Kangchenjunga, Tseng has not recanted her authentic claims on Manaslu. Concerning the questions raised by the evaluation of these summit images, she mentioned: “I feel it’s inappropriate to make judgments primarily based on whether or not the gadgets on the highest of the mountain could have moved.”

Tseng had her occasions allegedly registered by the expedition’s liaison officer in Base Camp. She additionally has the help of Nima Gyalzen, chief of the Sherpa staff. Nonetheless, his credibility suffered considerably after he additionally insisted that they reached the summit of Kangchenjunga in 2021, which they didn’t.

Apart from her staff, we haven’t discovered different Manaslu climbers prepared to help Tseng’s declare.

“It’s as if Tseng claimed that she will fly, after which we needed to show that people can’t really fly, so as to forged doubt on her declare,” fellow Taiwanese 8,000m climber FishTri advised ExplorersWeb. “Grace [Tseng] has declined different climbers’ velocity climb invitation in Taiwan by saying she performs higher at excessive altitudes. However as everyone knows, climbers who do nice at 8,000m additionally carry out as properly or higher at sea degree or at 3,000m. I sincerely hope she will do a climb within the public eye and we are able to witness her true energy.”

Eyes mounted on the following expedition

As we beforehand talked about, we pay due respect to Grace Tseng and admire the expertise and energy she acquired via her continuous climbing all through 2022. However her declare of 13 hours is so extraordinary, even in comparison with elite climbers, that it calls for strong proof.

 We strongly counsel that she makes an additional effort to be clear on her upcoming expeditions, particularly if she goals for an FKT or another document. Her willingness to climb Kangchenjunga once more is a step in the best course.

 Mountaineering will not be a regulated sport, nevertheless it does have its ethics and requirements for honesty and transparency. Whereas it lacks an authority to validate achievements, a worldwide climbing group pays shut consideration to all outstanding claims.

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